Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Below you will find Stilton Terry Berry, a halfling theif who fell victim to a sinkhole and was deposited in a skaven infested sewer. Normally, this would be the end of our story...and of Stilton, but the morally dubious half-pint managed to survive the ordeal. He stole skaven weapons, drank contaminated water and ate skaven or rat whenever possible. Stilton's slippery slope of degeneration did not subside when he reached the surface. However, with less skaven about to satisfy his hunger, he turned to eating pretty much anything...raw. Stilton is no longer a halfling. His pale skin and ravenous eyes mark his new path towards ghouldom.
This model counts as a dreg, but is supposed to represent a halfling who is transforming into a ghoul. I painted his skin with a mix of red and bronzed flesh, then drybrushed flesh over it, and then dry brushed white over that. The idea was to give a pale-reddish look to the model, as if he was ill. His ninja clothes are simply black dryburshed with white. I am quickly finding that while this technique is AWESOME for armour....it sucks for clothes. His bow is blue because, while I originally thought the brown rope would stand out enough, his back simply needed something to add interest to that angle of the model. The front has the skaven symbol shrukiens painted in red. My favourite part of this model is the feet. I just love how they look with the brown and the black....very ninja-esque. The whole model took roughly 130 minutes to complete, including base coating.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
This week's mini is totally appropriate. I am envious of Hivemind's painting skills and I have been watching Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Hence, short fellow in "envy green" jacket.
I like halflings. I have a pile of them to paint for Warhammer and Blood Bowl. This Games Workshop halfling is Lumpin Croop from the Dogs of War range. I am not sure if he can still be purchased. It is a fun model to paint, not to difficult with nice broad areas and enough detail to keep the eye interested. I have been using more water in my paints and blending the colours a bit more as well. I am not quite ready for wet-in-wet blending, but I think I improved with this mini. I may add a light red wash to the cheeks and nose and finish the base with some of the bead flock. I am hesitant to do the eyes as I always make the figure cross-eyed. I also note that I am missing his buckler.
Next week's miniatures will be some Napoleonic French infantry. Pictured above are two 15mm Old Guard from Essex. Essex is often criticized for incorrect proportions (gnomes in uniform!). I will be purchasing some Old Glory and AB miniatures in the future to do a comparison.
Friday, January 22, 2010
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
And here is the finished command squad:
Not quite sure what I am going to paint next, but I think I need a break from all this blue. I am, however, happy that I finished a squad rather than just a single miniature and I hope I will do a few of these this year (thus gaining me an army or the better part of it). I think my command squad looks good so far. I also think they look like a reasonable start to a kill team. If I do add anything to the models, it would be wire cutters or rope or small add-ons like that.
Last Saturday I was able to stop by Dueling Grounds (http://www.dueling-grounds.com) for a painting lesson with a Golden Daemon painter. I got a good tutorial on how to paint skin tones. The halfling at left is the test miniature. I tried the same techniques on the ogre. It may be that I tried too much to fast as the skin tones did not come out as I had hoped. I also note that I forgot the teeth. The other ogre has much more body hair, more like a gorilla than an ogre, and the texture causing me some problems. This is why I abandoned it.
Not sure what mini I'll be painting next week. I note that I am rapidly running out of time during the week. I am taking some evening courses which run late and there is much work to be done.
I may start doing smaller simpler miniatures until the classes end in April.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Okay - finally got around to getting some photos taken of my Eradicator.
This is a simple long shot of the finished tank.
You can see more photos of it here:
Folks asked about the painting so...
The conversion was more complex than much of the painting as the gun is from an entirely different kit and required the turret to be cut way back (about a centimeter) and then new plasticard armor extentions added to bring the armor back out to the original length but at a different angle.
Once that was done, the tank was primed white. Because of the white striping and green base I use a white prime for my armor. I've tried black and the green goes on far too dark requiring either a lot of extra coats or living with a very dark tank which isn't supposed to be. I had that problem with some of my artillery pieces where I used a black prime for the gun and fighting platform area and white for the rest of the tank. It works when done but was a lot more effort.
Once primed white the colour stripe nose areas are masked off so that they stay white and the entire tank is airbrushed green. Then the tan camo is added over that and finally the dark brown. The tan paint I'm using I'm not happy with and will replace when it's gone as it tends to speckle a lot through the airbrush and require a lot of clean up work with a brush after.
I glue the tracks on after the cam painting is done as it's a lot easier than hand painting over the cam which takes a long time and is just not needed if you put them on after. Tracks are primed black (although some I have were from old GW kits which were actually moulded in black - I don't bother to prime those).
With the cam done and cleaned up the mask is removed and any spray which got under it is cleaned up. This is when the treads are glued on and given a dark silver drybrush.
The red stripe (blue the artillery company but this tank is from the armored company) is painted carefully by hand. Details like stowage, lights etc. are then painted.
The entire tank is then sprayed with a gloss clear. This makes decals go on much better. After decalling it's sprayed with gloss again. (I skipped that step on this tank because I was in a hurry and regretted it as I got some decal silvering that I had to clean up later by hand). The weathering goes on over the gloss coat as it flows better.
For this tank I added chipped paint with a sponge to show damage from the crew moving around it. You can see it on the turret side behind the smoke launcher and on the track guards.
Shadows start by giving the entire tank a wash of thinned griffon sepia brown. There are fancier ways of getting that shadow but I find this both fast and effective. Additional shadows are done using thinned down dark brown oil paint. Dry brush weathering is then done, usually graveyard earth around the tracks and over them a bit to bring down the silver and rotting flesh for dust over the rest of the tank. Weathering powders were done at this stage for soot for gun muzzles etc.
Finally the entire tank was sprayed with a matte coat to seal everything in and kill the shine. Any metal bits (like the piston rods on the sides of the gun) were then touched up over this as a good matte coat will kill the look of the metallics.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
As you can tell, I'm probably not going to make the whole "Weekly Mini" timeframe. At least not right now. But I am still working on that captain.
Another update. Today I was painting the shoulder pads and head. I only got in a couple hours painting time, so not quite as far as I had hoped. But still decent progress, considering my lack of time...and spending considerable of it trying to salvage some old paint. Which worked out nicely.
The bone is painted using GW Graveyard Earth basecoat.
I then paint a layer of GW Bleached Bone as my main colour, leaving some Graveyard Earth showing around the edges. Feathering the edges so that the Graveyard Earth fades into the Bleached Bone. I then do a blend line, by painting Graveyard Earth into the depths, with Bleached Bone right beside it, and wet blend the two into an even gradiant.
Next I make a 50/50 mix of Bleached Bone and GW Skull White. I highlight with this mix on the areas light spills most. For this I wet blend from Bleached bone. Finally, I feather in pure Skull White on the edges and top highlights.I even out the blend by then glazing with a thinned down bleached bone and thinned skull white. This makes is look smooth.
Finally I darken the depths with thinned down brown ink (original Citadel ink) painted directly into the crevasses in a tightly controlled manner.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Limited use of metalics? Check. Blue Grey Cloak? Check Greenish armour? Check.
Ok. the techniques were pretty basic. I used a very watery black wash to add coulour to the recesses. The I used a thin grey on the cloak and use a greyish blue on the high points as a highlight. I used a old scaly green, and a blended layer of one and one or snot green and scaly green. Then I used a goblin green for some highlights. Then a get more highlights with a thin rotthing flesh.
These are actualy 15 mm goblins that I fished out of bargin bin, a few years ago. The are the right size for pugwumpis and armed with similar weapons. The can be used in a variety of role playing capacites as fey or snotiling or other smallish humaoids. The unitis 24 tiny humaoids and in a week with limited "not working" hours, it might not be a beautiful job, but it should be interesing.
I've got another old high elf model but I'm going to see if I can pull out something different after two weeks of warhammer quest models. I'm also looking for cheaper mfgr's mini's I could use for the following characters (barbarian, wizard, brettonian knight, chaos warrior, imperial noble).
Monday, January 11, 2010
I have another two panzer III J tanks this week. These are for the painting contest at painting contest at THMG. I'm not particularly happy with the results as I forgot which exact colours I used (I should write this down) and the wash came out very heavy. Fortunately the contest was extended two weeks so I can go back and touch up the details. I was happy with the colour of the commander's jacket, a mix of Vallejo's "Green Ochre" and Citadel Foundation "Charadon Grey". One of the other things I enjoyed about painting these models was using the foam from a blister pack as a paint brush. I dipped a corner of the foam in "Charadon Grey" and carefully dabbed on the paint where I thought paint would chip off.
Next week I plan to paint a pair of ogres belonging to a friend. They are both Ral Partha miniatures, and not bad ones at that.
Friday, January 8, 2010
This required gluing on his dragon cloak.
As well I had to do some green stuff to hide the gap.
I'm going to try to get at least a couple progress posts up per mini now, as that's kinda the fun bit - seeing it progress from pewter to painted. :)
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
This dreadnought will be featured alongside my terminator army, which is being painted Death Company (something about deranged, psychotic super-engineered giants in thick mechanical suits just warms my heart, you know?). The best thing about this model? I painted it in under three hours AND it looks good. The scheme also looks great when you put the different models beside each other.
I knew I had to make it black....but I didn't want my dreadnought looking like a piece of old charcoal with an assault cannon glued onto it, so I made the cables bright colours and kept the ornamentation gold so it wouldn't look too much like how I intend to paint the terminators. I also did the lens green instead of red since I didn't want the lens to be mixed up with any of the blood angel insignia. I also made liberal use of decals I had running around, since my ability to write or draw anything so small is...limited. The assault canon is labeled death and the fist is labeled glory....love the name despite the fact it is a little used rule....(for those non-warhammerenians, death or glory is a rule that allows you to risk getting run over in order to have an infantry place a bomb on a charging tank....)
Soooo, how did I paint this so quick? The tip I got was originally for the terminators. Paint it black, dry brush white and then take watered down black and go over any parts you don't want drybrushed. It really helps. So without further delay, I give you...the dreadnought: